Water Filters

I have an Aqua Rain, and I have a couple of issues with it. If I had my way I'd have a plastic bodied filter (they don't dent or rust) but the key item in any gravity filter is the filter itself, also known as the "candle". You can buy the filters separately and MOST gravity filter resellers do not make their own filters, they buy them. There are other systems, but some depend on water pressure (like the reverse-osmosis types) to create a flow, and others are too proprietary to allow you to use replacements elements from other manufacturers. MOST gravity filters will let you use up to 4 candles in the process, BUT you can get plugs so that you only have to use one - which has limited production, but will keep most small families in filtered drinking water easily. The good filters are NOT cheap. Lots of info floating around out there about gravity filters.

 

We're probably going to get a Berkey (probably the "Big Berkey"):
http://www.pleasanthillgrain.com/be...lter_british_berkefeld_portable_purifier.aspx

Not cheap, but these are Log 7 purifiers as opposed to Log 4 filters. a Log 4 filter filters out 99.99% of impurities. A Log 7 purifier does 99.99999% by EPA requirements. Amazing products, and when you consider the importance of water, not *really* that expensive. You can put rain waiter, pond water, pool water, whatever in it and have safe, drinkable water. That idea really appeals to me, especially in the event of a disaster where water may be scarce or "sketchy" when eventually located.

 

Berkey apparently makes a "black" filter element and a "white" filter element. These purifiers comes with the black one, and it is rated at 3000 galllons of water filtering. Naturally, the dirtier the water, the shorter the lifespan. If you're filtering rain water or something relatively clean, probably 3000 gallons. If you're filtering brown water, maybe 1000-1500 gallons? After that, you just change out the filter element.

 

For my city supplied water, and since it's a VERY old city system, we have everything from farm runoff (animal feces/farm chemical)
AND,
It's coming from heavy concentrations of lime stone, so we have lots of minerals,
Add in the rust and heavy metals from 100 year old piping system, and you have some pretty heavily contaminated water for what's supposed to be a 'Clean' system.
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I start with two oversized whole house filters...
Particle filters, one for really large particles, one for medium sized particles.

If you use super fine filters right off the bat, the plug up REALLY QUICKLY!
So it's better to filter out the particulate a little at a time unless you want to change filters in the middle of the night so you can flush the toilet!

Then my water DRINKING water goes through a 5 stage reverse osmossis filter system...

One Very Fine filter for the small 'CHUNKS',
One carbon filter for chemicals,
One carbon removal filter, since all carbon filters leak debris as they work,
Then through the reverse osmoses membrane and a chemical removing finish filter.

Drinking water is supplied by a small spigot on the back of the sink,
That same line also supplies the refrigerator ice maker and the 'Water Through Door' on the Fridge.

Kitchen sink 'Cold' and bathroom sink 'Cold' water are both run through the two main filters, and the first three filters of the RO system, so it's fitered 5 times (but not RO) water to brush teeth with, or if someone drinks for the kitchen 'Cold' tap, they stand a pretty good chance of not getting 'Contamination' from the city water system

One outside 'Utility' water spigot for garden, washing car, ect.
One outside 'Filtered' water spigot for rinsing car, filling kiddie pool, ect.

The RO system is a Honeywell, and I'm VERY happy with it's function over the past 6 or 7 years.
The basic 5 stage RO was about $135 from 'Home Depot' 6 or 7 years ago, and you can pick up the extra filter housings for under $20 each.

Everything mounted very compactly, and takes up about a spot on the basement wall about 18" wide and about three feet tall, but I have things pretty spread out so all the fitlers are easy to service, and I added extra shut off valves so you don't have to shut off and drain the entire house to service the filters.

Want pictures?

 

We use brita filters, seems to make the water taste less funky or maybe the water being colder does that...

 

I've used PUR and Brita filters before, and they're fine for filtering city water and making it taste better, etc. I think in a disaster situation, I'd like something a bit more robust that can filter to a higher degree. You never know where your next water may come from - rain water, your neighbor's pool, a pond... I'm going to invest in a something that will allow me to use any source to acquire my water. That's why I'll probably get a Berkey. Of course, people have different situations, and you have to do what makes sense for you and your family.

 

How well does boiling it work for removing contaminants, couldn't something be devised with coffee filters, metal screens and boiling that would make it drinkable?

 

I'd also add 8 drops of bleach per gallon of water AFTER you boil it. It'll taste a bit like pool water (chlorine-y), but between boiling and bleach, just about anything living in it should be removed/killed. It should be at least safe to drink at that point, or at least better than Mexican water.

 

I have heard of half a t-spoon per gallon, is this near 8 drops?

 

Someone asked if filters were cleanable, etc... The typical ceramic type filters are meant to be scrubbed/cleaned, to a certain point. Most come with a diameter measuring tool to tell you when you've scrubbed them too small. Stiff brush or a scrunge removes the outer (presumably clogged) layers of ceramic.

 

Sounds like MORE than 8 drops to me... I doubt it would harm you, though.

The normally "suggested" amount is 1 ppm (part per million), so 1 drop of bleach per 1,000,000 drops of water. This equates to 8 drops of bleach per gallon of water, or 2 drops of bleach per quart (32 oz) of water.

 

Boiling works very well for living organisms.
Most everything from viruses up can be killed by roaring boiling for 12 minutes or more.
(5 Minutes at sea level, 1 minute longer for each 1,000 feet increase in altitude)

Boiling does OK on SOME chemicals.
Chemicals that have higher boiling point than water, it simply concentrates.

Boiling concentrates mineral, heavy metals, ect.
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Boiling in a 'Distiller', or 'Still' is the way to get most of the stuff out.
That will kill or remove all but the chemicals that can boil away and condense in the cooling chamber.

Boiling is very time consuming and takes up quite a bit of energy in the form of fuel for the heat source.

In the distilling process, the water becomes vapor, and leaves any of the solids, salts, parasites or what ever in the boiling chamber,
Then the water condenses and returns to liquid water again free of most problems in the water.

This is a VERY effective way to purify smaller batches of water, but it's too time consuming and materials consuming for large scale production for 'Survival' situations...
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Filters are a more effective in removing 'Particulate' or 'Suspension' particles.
That includes solids from minerals, chemicals, heavy metals and larger parasites.

Once the water is 'Clear' of solids were bad things and 'Critters' can hide, the easy and cost effective way to finish the purification is with Medical Grade UV light or with Chemical Treatment to kill the smaller bacteria or viruses.

In the 'Regular' world, particle filters are cheap and effective, and easy to buy at the hardware or discount stores.

In the 'Rough' large scale water filtration can be done by a few ways, including settling ponds or barrels, where the water sets long enough for the particulates to settle to the bottom,
Then through sand barrels to catch the really small critters and stuff with a specific gravity about that of water,
Then through Medical Grade UV light or chemical treatment before drinking.
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Actually, bleach and boiling do the same job...
Chlorine (active ingredient in 'Bleach) is there to kill the LIVING ORGANISMS, same as boiling does.

You could do both, but that would be over kill.

Adding a couple of drops of chlorine per gallon of water for long term storage would be a good deal to kill any 'critters' that try and get a foot hold while the water is stored...
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That would depend on the contamination level of the water you were trying to purify...

City water straight out of the tap is over treated most places, so you can add NOTHING and have it last over a year in storage.

Water you want to last for more than Months, you should add about TWO drops of clear Chlorine (bleach) to for long term storage to inhibit microbial growth over time.
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If you are talking about trying to purify 'Raw' water that is clear, or 'Raw' water that is dark, you will have to use significantly more Chlorine to purify these than to preserve already 'Clean' water.

We need to know how 'Dark' the water is before anyone can even begin to recommend a level of treatment...

 

There's a website where you can buy any of the Berkey filtering systems for 22% off retail, plus get free shipping.

Emergency Supplies | Berkey Light Big Berkey Water Filters | Disaster Kits

I bought one of the Big Berkeys with four of the black filters from them and the total came to $264.42. If you only wanted the two filters I think it comes to about $195. And that includes shipping.

From what I've heard, the black filters, which all of the newer units are coming with, are much better than the old white filters. I believe the black filters will even filter out pathogens.

 

Boiling water only kills the germs like Gerdia. The water should still be filtered after boiling to remove the dead bacteria. Cheese cloth or triple coffee filter will work. However keep in mind it is slow work but worth saving from infection of Disentary.

I have had "Montazuma's Revenge" once while I was in the field in the Army and believe me it was no party.

I now carry a small water filter pump that can be purchased at any Sporting Goods Store when I go camping if I plan on using the available water source there.

I will only use Chlorine tabs as a last resort!

 

A few years ago I was looking for a water filter I could use while camping and found a filter called a NATO filter made by Katadyn. I use the Combi model and I won't drink water without it.
It can be installed at a sink or used in the field with the included pump. Can be packed in thirty seconds off the sink.
It is a ceramic type with silver particles embedded in the ceramic for some reason I forget why. Must be for bacterial removal.
Optimal use is with a carbon filter to reduce the large doses of clorine they dump in water systems to deem it safe. Just can't be good for us.
Don't trust ANY water system nowadays no matter where you live!

 

I have the Berkey light, it is plastic and comes with three extra ceramic filtered water bottles, on e bay for around $200.00.
For clarity; the old berkey''s are stainless and much more expensive, this one is clear,see through plastic.
Good deal, works fine even takes out clorine from our city water

 

Yea, I would definitely go with the black berkey elements. I've had the Royal Berkey with 4 BB's for about 2 years and I just love it. I fill it up about 1-2 times a week and drink away. This berkey filters site is running a discount for alex jones fans.

 

Useful references

The Berkeley units are good.

So is the Katadyn Vario.
*Katadyn VARIO Microfilter <b>NEW! Nitro-Pak.com The World Leader in Innovative & Affordable Preparedness Gear

Some useful links:

CDC Disasters | Keep Food and Water Safe After a Disaster

USACHPPM - DEHE