I recomend a machineist's ruby stone,its ruby granules on one side and ceramic on the other,its used for honeing HSS lathe bits and it'll set you back about 35$I've got one I've had over 20 years and it yet shows NO WEAR!just wash it off with scrubbing powder when it gets dirty and it'll serve you well.
Tips on knife sharpening?
I think I was meant to have a dull knife. 
I've looked at tons of different websites and tried different devices and techniques and haven't found one that works for me. Anyone got a sure fired way to sharpen a knife? I would love to hear about it. Thanks...
~JohnP
I've looked at tons of different websites and tried different devices and techniques and haven't found one that works for me. Anyone got a sure fired way to sharpen a knife? I would love to hear about it. Thanks...~JohnP
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Not to bust your bubble,but that's TOO SHARP for a working knife,it'll dull faster like that.Hot dang! I purchased the Lanksy system this morning and tried it out on my old dull Leatherman. That puppy will now shave hair off my arm.
Thanks to everyone that replied.
~John
I'm your guy.I've been making blades since I was 10.that's 35 years.godz I'm old!I think I was meant to have a dull knife.
~JohnP
First,not every blade sharpens the same way!a rolled edge is WAAAY different than a hollow ground edge when it comes to sharpening.
example:
a case XX is a wedge grind,it sharpens like a straight razor,which is to say you lap it like you were trying to shave the stone,straight down and with the grain,then hone it on leather,a Buck 110 is a combination rolled edge and hollow grind.it sharpens at an angle to the stone and since it is a semi-rolled edge,it needs no further honing.
Also,it could just be you have a crappy knife or three,but I'll get back to that:
[WORK knives]should NEVER be razor sharp!this includes hunting knives with the exception of those with two or more cutting blades,the heavy work blade should only be sharp enough to cut,the dressing blade should shave you.a razor sharp blade no matter how fine the steel will go dull much faster than one that's just sharp on regular chores.
[SURVIVAL]knives should NEVER shave.see above.
[FIGHTING]knives should have a ragged edge that rips rather than cuts.it is produced by using a coarse grit stone or[BLASPHEMY!!!]a file!
Now then,having said all that,a crappy sharpening stone will not only ruin a knife,its damned near impossible to get an edge with one!go to a industrial supply and buy a ruby oxide[its red] stone.next find some 20 wt machine/motor oil[gun oil is too light and can actually EAT UP a cheap whet stone!I saw a Chinese made rock disintegrate over night after I used 3in1 oil on it!]light oil soaks into the stone instead of lubricating it,lube makes a keen edge.
While you're there,buy a triangle file with 3 coarseness.its to dress out a truly DULL edge to near sharpness,always file in one direction and always parallel to the edge,much like scissors.wear a glove or bleed if it skips!
Find an Arkansas oil stone,I like white to hone on.
Get an old work belt to lap it on,better yet,a virgin leather strap and put cutting rogue[red] on it,just lightly.
NOW:
How to fix a crappy knife edge,I've done this on carbon and stainless steel.
Clamp the blade between two pieces of heavy angle iron long enough to cover the length of the blade,leave only about 1/4" of the edge showing and heat it dull red with a torch,moving from point to hilt carefully so as not to wreck your grip.now comes the tricky part so READ CAREFULLY OR RUIN YOUR KNIFE!
For STAINLESS STEEL,quench in AMMONIA!
For Carbon steel use oil,I like motor oil but it scales,my teacher used cooking oil.
Just chunk angle iron and all in there.this will give you a hard edge and a soft spine and will hold a superior edge to most mass produced blades,word of caution,it may make the edge brittle on some stainless steels[Pakistan/China junk]if so,simply repeat the process and allow to cool in dry sand or ashes.
Hope that helps!
P.S
HOT oil is dangerous,wear glasses an apron and gloves!
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