those of us who have a S.O. who doesn't "get it"

Discussion in 'General Homesteading & Building' started by fobhomestead, Aug 16, 2010.

  1. fobhomestead

    fobhomestead Well-Known Member


    After doing all I can to research and get my brain wrapped around the different things we will need at our new place, study whattypes of animals will be best for the type of area we own, get fencing options, look into different power options, research the uses of wood stoves (remember.. city gal here) and what we can and cannot burn, figure out what to do with our trash so the bears dont mark our home as a "buffet", .....
    I get the ole' :scratch "what are you talking about?" and "are you friggin :nuts: ??? All this stuff you are talking about is CRAZY! Why dont we just go to the store?? What do you mean homestead? Why cant we just :quote:LIVE:quote:???? Does anyone else have a Sig. Other that is less than supportive????


    Any advice (other than the obvious of just doing it and maybe he will see the benefit of it (after the fact). I sure would like to know I have some support, but I am a realist (after all). :)
  2. fobhomestead

    fobhomestead Well-Known Member


    Am I alone?? :cry: I guess my only option is to revert back to the "honey do" list. Give him :kiss: for helpin out.
    Or just ignore him and do what needs to be done as positively and as best as I can! :dunno: Just cuz he has a bad attitude doesn't mean I have to join him! :)

  3. CVORNurse

    CVORNurse Well-Known Member

    Nope, you are not alone. Gotta get to work now, but wanted you to know there are more of us out there.
  4. mdprepper

    mdprepper I sold my soul to The_Blob. He had candy...

    Nope, you are not alone.

    My Husband is right there with your Hubfriend. He refers to my pantry as the "vault". He is shocked every time he asks what I am reading: Humanure, making charcoal, purifying water, EMP, solar power, etc. I made the mistake of telling him that the average grocery store only has 2-3 days of food on hand, I thought he was going to have me committed. He thinks I am paranoid. I mean we live in the suburbs, I can walk to the grocery store, 4 gas stations, 3 fast food places, drug store and more in 10 minutes or less.

    The only way I have found to get him onboard with me is $$$$$. Why did I buy 80 rolls of TP, the price is going up. 30 pounds of chicken, it was on sale for .79 @ lb so I saved $XX buying this way. Actually, I use the "I saved $XX" a lot. Before coupons, sale price, discount card the groceries would have cost $100, I only paid $30 so I just saved us $70. That he can appreciate and understand!

    We are looking at buying land in West Virginia for vacation/retirement. So I have added it is all research for that. I am buying "camping" supplies for our vacation land.
  5. JeepHammer

    JeepHammer Well-Known Member

    If you have grazing animals, cows, sheep, goats & the like, you will need to section pasture and rotate the land they graze.
    Most will require shelter from sun/cold.

    Cattle need to be rotated on pasture at least once during the summer and require shelter and fairly heavy fences.
    Cattle like to push/scratch on fences/posts, they like to stick heads through fences to eat outside, and cattle will need to be vaccinated if they share common fences with other animals.
    Most times, if they don't share common fences, they won't need a lot of vet care.

    Cattle will eat ANYTHING they find in a pasture/fence lot, so MAKE SURE you don't have any glass, nails, piece of wire, wood slivers, ect. they can get to.
    There is a reason they make 'Cow Magnets' to catch metal!
    If you have cattle, INVEST IN THEM, it will save you a lot of trouble in the long run.

    Cattle will eat things that will kill them, so make sure the toxic plants aren't around where they can get to them.
    Wild Cherry Trees, Canadian Thistles, Jimsonweed are a few things you CAN NOT allow to grow in pasture land.

    Having dedicated scratching posts and chemical treatment 'Ropes' for parasites like flies/ticks/lice will save you a ton of rubbed down fences, bark rubbed off pasture trees, stuff like that.

    Buffalo are MUCH smarter than cows, they usually don't need shelters, won't eat strange things in the pasture, and won't poison themselves on most toxic plants.
    They are leaner meat, require less vet care, winter better and are just plain smarter than cows.

    They are harder on fences, so if you put up fence, try a good woven wire fence with an inside string of BARBED ELECTRIC FENCE to keep them from running the fences down.
    They are by nature a migratory animal, so they WILL get a wild hair once in a while and try to leave where even if domesticated cattle get out, they won't go far.

    If you build fence, BUY A POWERED POST HOLE DIGGER!
    I beat a MILLION post holes in the ground by hand when I was younger, and I'll never do it again!

    The standard fence is post 'Two Rods' or 16' apart. Try for a stright line when you can,
    And remember to keep the fence about 6" off the ground when you stretch it if you are keeping in large animals.
    When you put the fence right on the ground, you can't mow under it, so it will grow up in weeds,
    And it will rot out MUCH sooner on the bottom
    That last 6" goes away VERY quickly, so not leaving it to rot away makes your fence 6" taller to start with, and that's always good,
    And keeps the bottom of the fence from rotting away as quickly, compromising the rest of the fence wire.
    Once rust gets started, it's hard to stop!

    Watch what you use to kill weeds around the fence.
    Don't spray fences when livestock are in the field, they WILL be attracted to the salts (heavy metal salts or salts treated with a benzine derivative, neither of which is good for livestock)

    Virtually all industrial strength weed killers use metal salts, and they will attack your fence wire, metal posts, ect.
    Be VERY careful where you spray them around metals!

    The industrial stuff is VERY potent, so use SPARINGLY! You don't have to soak down everything like you do with the commercial versions!
    Just a light sprinkle will usually kill EVERYTHING around the fence line in short order.

    With the fence about 6" up off the ground, you can spray under the fence pretty easily, or use a 'Wick' type applicator under the fence.
    You will see people just letting trees and everything else grow up in their fence lines,...
    Everyone dislikes him and makes fun of him when he's not around,
    Good fences make good neighbors, and a good looking fence line makes for healthier live stock, no rusty wire to gnaw on, or get tangled up in causing injury to the animal and vet bills, and no holes in your fence where that critter tried to get it's self free...

    Calving pasture should be fenced to the ground, and should be fenced with a smaller wire weave towards the bottom or smaller 'Squares' all the way around...
    This is the only real exception.
    Calves are curious and small enough to get heads under the fence or through the fence and get stuck or get loose, and calves WILL get killed hanging in a fence or getting in the roads around the farm.

    you will find that cows are attracted to the HIGHWAY/Road side of the fence line, and they WILL get out and stand in the road when they get loose!
    Pay particular attention to those areas when installing fence.

    Fence should ALWAYS be on the INSIDE of the pasture when you attach it to the posts!
    That way when the live stock push on the fence (and they WILL!) it pushes the fence up against the posts and no pushes the staples/attachment wires off the post and let the fence flop free...


    Hogs are a REAL pain to raise unless you are going to do it indoors.
    They tear the crap out of pastures/feed lots, they are hard on fences, and they will take directly off if they get loose, and trust me, they WILL find a way out eventually!

    Hogs take a lot of vet care in the beginning, lots of worming, lots of cutting teeth (which grow to 'Tusks' if you don't), and they can be quite fickle about who they let in to tend them...

    Male hogs have to be 'Cut' which presents it's own challenges if you don't know how to do it yourself...
    Like most domesticated animals, they WILL eat where they defaecate, so worming and other parasites are a constant issue...
    And more of what hogs have can be passed to humans than about any other animal you will come into contact with.

    Hogs need more protection from excessive heat/cold than cows,
    Hogs will screw up ANY water source they are exposed to, so if you have them watering from a pond, expect to have the pond 'Dipped Out' from time to time because they WILL ride the banks into the water,
    And they are blood thirsty, they WILL attack and eat humans if you give them the chance.

    On the other hand, BACON IS SO GOOD!

    Pork processing is usually harder, you have to smoke or cure about all of the 'Good' cuts, and it's a mess to butcher at home...
    Pork gets tough and stringy if you home can it.

  6. JeepHammer

    JeepHammer Well-Known Member

    So many people want to raise horses, and they are worse than owning a pool or boat! They are CONSTANT money pits!

    Horses are the hardest on fences, they aren't terribly smart, they are constantly sick needing vet care, they are susceptible to so many maladies you wouldn't believe it, and they take shoeing about every 6 weeks.

    If you put up a 'Horse Fence' count on AT LEAST TWO STRANDS OF BARBED WIRE ON TOP!
    They get on top of the fences and ride them down, and if you don't have barbed wire, they will destroy your fences VERY QUICKLY.

    Be aware there are some types of horses that will DIE if they come into direct contact with a strong electric fence!
    Don't ask me why, I don't know, something to do with copper in the blood and thin skin, but it does happen, especially with the more domesticated breeds like the European thoroughbreds...

    They NEED fresh water, and often won't drink from standing ponds, and are picky about their water, just like they are about their feed.
    Regular 'Hay' that a cow has no issues with at all will kill a horse, so you have to be VERY particular about what you feed them.
    Some grains are 'Too Dry' and will cause problems, so will 'Sweetened' feeds that put weight on cows and hogs... It will just cause sugar problems in a horse.

    Even the stall bedding has to be 'Correct' since they aren't smart enough NOT to eat it!

    They will run and ride other livestock, they run the weight right off cattle in the same pasture so it's not a good idea to try and put horses in the same pasture with cows.

    Too many generations of 'People' directed breeding, Horses have lost so many of the natural immunities to illness, will eat things that kill them they should have natural instinct not to eat but it's been bread out of them, and the leg bones, particularly 'Ankles' have a tendency to go if they don't get regular hoof care, which is expensive.

    If you have any ideas about boarding horses, take it from someone that does,
    Horse owners are the most irresponsible people I've ever seen.
    They won't show up for days to feed, water or care for the animal.
    They are ALWAYS late with stall/pasture rent.
    They expect YOU to take care of their animals, and they expect you to do it for free.

    They will NOT move an anti-social animal when told to, and they will deny everything when going through the vetting process for boarding...
    They will NEVER tell you about biting, kicking, aggressive or sick horses...
    Horse owners are like parents of anti-social children,
    They deny everything, swear there little 'Pudding' would never rob a liquor store or beat up neighborhood kids,
    But the animal acts up because it's not getting enough attention, training or obedience direction from the owners.

    And to ship the animals off to animal control or horse rescue if they are left unattended or the bill is unpaid!

    I've been through this, and I currently have 'Issues' with boarders, so it IS RELEVANT.
  7. mosquitomountainman

    mosquitomountainman I invented the internet. :rofl:

    Not sure that this had anything to do with getting your SO on board but be careful if you want to raise buffalo. They have a lot of good things going for them but the meat to weight ratio on Buffalo is low compared to beef cattle. They need a very good fence. Electric fencing is the way to go for almost everything IMO. Get the pulse type. It works well and is easier on the animals. Be sure it has a good ground. That's the biggest reason for failure of fence chargers.

    My first wife (died of cancer years ago) "tolerated" my preps. My present wife (gypsysue) is totally on-board. It does make life a lot easier when you both agree on the need to prepare.
  8. *Andi

    *Andi Supporting Member

    I had to smile ... (sorry)

    But I remembered a day, back some 20 odd years ago... When I wanted a few chickens.:D Hubby said he didn't think we needed them...

    Then one day he gets a call, a chicken plant was down and was in need of parts and repair. So... off he goes and I got the call (by noon of that day) to order my chicks and never to buy a cut up chicken again.;)

    I will not go into what he saw over the three days he was working at the plant :eek: but it changed our way of life. We raise all our meat (or hunt it) ... all you have to do is look into factory farms. (It is an eye opener)
  9. JeepHammer

    JeepHammer Well-Known Member

    You have a boat or some other 12 volt powered device,
    Then you can 'Justify' two deep cycle batteries and a solar charger.
    Sit it in the sun, let it charge up in the day time, you have 'Light' and some power at night.

    The larger the solar panel, and the higher efficiency, the faster and/or larger battery bank you can charge.

    The little ones sold at Harbor Freight are about worthless,
    It's going to run you about $500 for a reasonable sized, efficient panel.
    Nothing like a 'two wheeler' type tote with batteries inside,
    Inverter mounted, and solar panel including so you can just wheel it where ever you want to go with it.

    Sun light in the daytime, inside at night, not an issue.

    The larger your battery bank, and the more efficient your lights and stuff, the longer your batteries will last and/or the faster they will charge since they didn't get fully discharged if you use efficient lights and don't try to suck a bunch of power.

    The less you run them down, the longer the last also...

    Inverters allow you to run 110 volt appliances like tools, lights, ect. off your batteries, but remember, small battery banks run down VERY quickly with high drain appliances.


    Another 'Energy' that is pretty easy to store is Propane.
    It's very versatile, Engine driven vehicle fuel, light, heat, cooking...
    Even self defense if you are a really nasty sort of person! :mad:

    Propane containers are easy to store, don't require rotation like liquid fuels do, and are pretty safe, although I wouldn't store a bunch in the house in case there was a leak or house fire you don't want them causing trouble,
    So outdoor storage in a 'Shed' is usually MUCH better than storing in the house.


    Generators should do several functions before you buy one.
    They should charge 12 volt common batteries,

    They should have outputs in 110V and 220 volt before you consider them,

    I would recommend you get a WELDER that outputs in 12 Volt DC for batteries,
    There is nothing like having a built in 'Trade' if you have to flee!
    Welding will be MANDATORY for a lot of projects/repairs, and it will give you an option of making money/trade materials/skills on the road or where ever you land.

    12 Volts DC for batteries,
    110 VAC for standard household appliances,
    And 220 volt DC for the heavy duty stuff you might need to do, like pumping water from a well or running appliances like an air compressor.
    Most welders alrady have those outputs built in, where a lot of the smaller generators (Pull Start) will make you plug in a battery charger and won't put out in 220 volts AC for larger jobs.

    Any time that generator is running, it's WASTING POWER. (just like your vehicle engines do)
    They are usually capable of making WAY more power than you use when they are started, so make sure you use as much of that power POTENTIAL as you can,
    Charge your battery bank at the same time you are pumping water, and have the fridge/cooler/freezer cycling to take advantage of the fuel you are burning.

    Since you live in the suburbs, consider a TRAILER instead of a 'Yard Barn'.
    Everything is mobile, everything is packed and ready to go,
    Don't forget things like garden seeds, food processing equipment, ect. since you have the ready storage for that stuff with a trailer.

    It's ALWAYS better to have those thrift store blankets and old cloths ready for departure if you don't plan on staying in place.
    And it's a PAIN to try and load water filters, food and everything else when you need to hit the road...

    Ask any refugee from a hurricane or flood!

  10. Emerald

    Emerald Well-Known Member

    Just wait till the first time you lose power-then have all the resources to keep everything running smoothly compared not having back ups.
    My hubby surprised me lately- we were shopping for groceries and we saw that one of my favorite shampoo and conditioner was on sale/clearance for .65¢ bottle! The hubby said buy 3 of each and put them up in the spare room with all the extra TP we ended up buying a few weeks ago on sale. Almost floored me right on the spot!
    But he did see the light when I decided to start making all of our baked goods all the time and on the first 25lb bag of flour we saved so much money that now lets me get sugar and all my spices etc.. in bulk And is thinking about putting cash aside to buy a Burky water filter for our home use(we lose power quite a bit and at odd times).
  11. Tirediron

    Tirediron RockyMountainCanadian

    I am lucky to have a wife who sees the need to be ready, both of us have lived the "ranch life" life since birth , but as to the convincing of a non believer maybe you could create a few "on purpose" shortages to open your SO 's eyes, nothing like sitting on the throne with no toilet paper to make one realize that having things on hand is nice, A little fuel for you fight . Store in general only have enough stock so that what they have is rotated every 1 1/2 to 2 days, this means 1/2 a day if something happens and people panic. :cry:
    Things that you know you will use before they go bad are best bought bulk to hedge inflation (and to be prepared)
    You will have to use some other method than reason to get thru ,one of the best is to let them SO s think they came up with the idea
  12. gypsysue

    gypsysue The wanderer

    Yes, emerald and mdprepper are right. It helps to use the "saving $$$" approach if you have to. Most people will go along with that.

    Don't try to do or learn everything at once. FOB, you're chomping at the bit to get everything done at once, and I can relate to that. When I decide on something I want to do, I can't stand it until it's at least in the works. I can picture it in my mind, all done, and the during actual process it's difficult for me to be patient.

    Sometimes I say to my husband that I feel like I haven't gotten much done this year, and he'll pull out pictures from a year ago, a few years ago, and even some from when we first bought the place 7 years ago. Then I see all that we have accomplished and I feel better. There are still so many things I want to do and learn.

    There's an old saying that the way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. That's how to set up your homestead. If you have friends and family that can come help with the major projects that can make it faster AND more fun. If you like to work alone with your family, just keep chipping away at it. The list will never end. If you give your husband a honey-do list, eventually he'll get frustrated and throw up his hands at the things that keep getting added to it.

    Just start laying out a plan for what needs to be done and then say things like "I thought this week we could build the chicken coop" or "We have the things we need, so why don't we start doing the fencing today?". You know your husband and how he thinks, so while you're planning out what needs to be done, plan out how to tell him in his language.

    By the way, on electric fencing, the solar fence chargers work really good and will handle miles of fencing. We've tied it together around both gardens and the goat pen, and have even extended it to connect to the 5-acre horse pasture as well as the corral. Handles it all. We have to walk the perimeters from time to time. Sometimes plants or tree limbs fall across it and short it out, but we haven't had much maintenance to do on it. After 6 years we had to replace the 6-volt battery in it.
  13. NaeKid

    NaeKid YourAdministrator, eh?

    GypsySue - you are so right about that honey-do list. I create my "list-of-things-to-do" every week and I try to work on that list in the evenings after work and on the weekends. When WildMist tries to toss more items into my already large list, it will send me over the edge.

    Sometimes she doesn't understand and says "Well, I just need you to take me __________" or "Its just one little thing" and I throw my hands in the air and pray to the gods that I don't do or say something that I will regret later.

    Her list of things that she wants to get done are "normally scheduled" items that do take time, but, they are things that have been done hundreds of times, so, it doesn't take time to "think-n-do". Many of the items on my list are similar, but, I end up tossing in a few projects that will take significant amount of time to figure out.

    This weekend (as an example) I was going to bend up some pipe, shave it and get it ready to weld onto the front bumper of my Jeep as a guard for the winch. I got the first piece of pipe bent up - wrong. Oh well, I have another project that could use that. So, I bend up the next one and I get it right. Then I notice the time and I cannot continue on that project due to time-constraints, so, I put the tools away before I can get started on the welding. No problem I say, I'll weld it up on Sunday.

    Sunday morning comes along and my neighbor comes over needing a hand with his car. Seems that it was making lots of noise from the front end. After pulling the whole thing apart, we figure that the bearings in the driver's front was cooked, buy new bearings, press out the old, press in the new, put the car back together and go for a spin. Works - but - its now time for a late supper, but, first, we need to get a new inner-tube for her bicycle, and, then I have to make supper, clean-up and all of a sudden there isn't enough light left in the day to get back to my planned-project.

    Tonight, my project is on hold (not enough time to get it completed and painted before night-fall), so I'll be fixing her bike instead, well, that'll be after I make supper and clean up the dishes ..

    Hmmm ... I think that we successfully derailed this thread.

    Back to the original subject - we have discussed this previously, but, for me, I have a prepper-woman who, just like GypsySue, prefers to jump into stuff with both feet. She doesn't like to wait - just do it and if it doesn't work out - do it again till it works. I am the opposite. I will research and learn what I can, then explore step-by-step by doing and reviewing what has been done so that I don't make the same mistake over and over again. Takes longer, but, in the end, I feel that the project has been completed properly.
  14. fobhomestead

    fobhomestead Well-Known Member

    You guys are awesome!!! Yeah, I am impatient so am jumping into the research aspect of all of it. I get the total picture of what I want into my head, then research each aspect to see if it is feasible. I have decided on chickens, goats, and horses. The horses may not be everyones choice, but I can use the manure for wood and for compost. I can eat the goats and chickens. Some people will eat horse (I dont think I could do that, but never say never- horse has more meat than a dog or cat in one of those eotwawki scenarios where we are starving. We have plenty of hunting in the area, and we can make lard from wild boar, chicken or beef (I hear chicken lard , of schmitzl? is good). I plan on getting the veggies that can grow wild with some success in our area and just let them grow in strategic areas. I want to utilize my area for the animals because my neighbors (it appears) use their land for agriculture. I have enough land for rotation and I plan on using a chicken tracor/free range set up. I dont want to do any type of boarding... I will do some rescuing of TWH because those are the best horses for my area. They were actually bred for farm work and endurance. That whole show crap is just, well... :ignore: I have been looking at all of the different needs for herbs and veggies that can help with medicinal purposes, checking up on soil and ph balance, etc....
    And my hubfriend doesn't think I know that we need to get a generator????? (I love the man til death, but really???)
    So, I need to understand that he is one of those "get a hammer... get a nail... get the wood..." type of guys, and I am the "the height of 7' of blah, blah, blah within one acre is blah, blah, blah which means 864 feet per blah, blah, blah..."
    He isnt really the planning type so doesnt understand why I am doing all of this. He would wake up one day with the world in turmoil cuz :shtf: and say "we need to do something!" Oh well. At least I will be able to say (with confidence) "honey, can you do this for me??" The money aspect will be a big tool I can use on him. As well as asking him to write out his own honey do list?? Sometimes it is just easier to have them do their own thing. ;)
  15. horseman09

    horseman09 Well-Known Member

    Fobhomestead, I'd be very cautious about getting horses if you and your SO aren't horsepeople. But if you do, an old horseman will give you a little advice if you don't mind. JMHO, but based on a lifetime of horses.

    First, find a horseperson who knows horses to help you select the right horses. Lots of snake oil salesmen in the horse business.

    Second, do not use barbed wire for horses if you can avoid it. Ask any vet. He'll relate more stories than you can shake a stick at about ripped up horses on b wire. Most adoption agencies won't even talk to someone if they use b wire. Horses are one of the easiest critters to keep in using electric fence, but if you use wire instead of ribbon, put tape on the wire between the posts so the horses can see it, particularly in new pasture. Electric fence requires a good ground rod. Read the fencer instructions and follow them. Our pastures have a single strand of ribbon and they have not gotten out once this year. A horse has a good memory, particularly to things that hurt. One bite of the fence and they will avoid it. Consider a good solar fencer.

    Free stall. Give'em shelter but open access to pasture even in the winter, with lots of good hay (no mold) and a little oats it they are hard keepers in the winter. Free stalling keeps the vet away. Feel free to ignore all the ridiculous supplements you'll see in horse mags. A salt block and a mineral block and access to good water.

    Colic and laminitis (founder) are the biggest killers of horses. Colic can come from lots of things including bad hay, excessive sand intake, etc, but it is far more rare if you consider the above paragraph. I have had the vet here only one time for a sick horse in the last 15 years, and that was a foal that was exposed to a neighbor's sick horse. (He didn't follow the fencer manufacturer's instructions regarding grounding --horse kept getting out). Don't let your horses out in lush pasture in the spring until you acclamate them over 4 or five days. They can founder. That's another good reason to free stall year around. Learn to give your own shots. Cost: about $20 per year per horse.

    Learn what plants in your area will kill a horse. For example, wilted cherry leaves: dead horses and cows. Black walnut sawdust for bedding: laminitis. Shoot the horse. They won't eat the black walnut bedding -- it absorbs through the hoof.

    If you live in an area that isn't excessively rocky and you won't be riding on stone or hardtop, don't shoe. Learn to trim hooves yourself.

    Last but not least............horses are not a puppy dogs. Don't treat them like they are. Buy a John Lyons book on horse training before you get horses (yes, horses plural. They are herd animals). Lyons is a gentle trainer but he still teaches and demands respect. My kind of horseman. A thousand pound animal that does not respect you can kill you even if it's just playing. A good horse with good training and care can be your best bud for life.

    Lots of opinions out there about horses, but this has been my experience coming from a long line of horsemen. There are lots of "right" ways to do things.

    Good luck.

    PS.......wanna keep the bear and coon out of your garbage? Put a good dollop of ammonia in the garbage bag, then close it tightly so it doesn't evaporate. Works for us.
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2010
  16. UncleJoe

    UncleJoe Well-Known Member

    What he said. :2thumb:

    And if your feeding and a 1000lb animal steps on your foot accidentally, it REALLY hurts; for several days.

    Now how would I know that. :rolleyes: :dunno:
  17. fobhomestead

    fobhomestead Well-Known Member

    Thank you


    Thank you for all of the advice- I never turn down others opinions. My SO is not a horse person, but I am. Everything you said is ringing true from what I plan on doing. The woman whom I bought my horse from is going to be mentoring me (we just hit it off, so I am excited! I have great property for trail riding- lots of unused county roads too). Here is what my plans are-
    I am hoping to get the Electrobraid fencing for my property (to keep wildlife out- check out the wildlife fencing). This of course will have solar power. I will have that around the majority of my property, but within my "compound", I will have the normal wood (goat actually) paddocks where my horses will pasture (they will have daily exercise with long rides). The trees will be good for cover, and I will build 2-3 lean tos. I will have a small goat barn for my goats, as well as a chiken tractor for my brids, who can free range during the day. 2/3 smaller areas and I will rotate the animals as needed to different ones.
    I dont plan on shoeing my horses. We have good county roads (dirt) and I would rather have them barefoot (screw that lifted shoe stuff they do to TWH's... NOT GONNA HAPPEN). More power to those who like the show- my TWH ranch is for horses that are going to be put back to the job they were bred for. It is the least I can do! These horses are FARM and endurance animals.. they like a job and companionship, not racking gaits, chains and soring. :mad: SO, I will keep a small (4-5) rescue ranch where I can retrain them and sell or adopt out to those who will use them for their original use. If they wont, I will. :)
    I am not squeemish and can draw blood, give shots, etc- but need to know how (my new friend will be mentoring me in this). Knew about the founder and colic, but still need to research the trees! I was going to plant cherry and walnut trees!! :eek: THANK YOU!! I will actually be feeding them smaller amounts of good timothy hay 3 times daily so they go easy on the stomach, with small amounts of grain for "special" treats.

    Do horses and goats get along? Is it ok for them to be in the same "area"? My goats will be Nigerian Dwarfs (Milking) and I will have about 2-4. I dont want a HUGE "farm", just enough top maintain milk production and eggs throughout the year.

    I am still trying to find something where I can keep my grain and hay under lockdown but everything is so expensive!!!
    DOes anyone know where I can get a good pole barn, lean to, trailer, SOMETHING that will not cost me my firstborn? (Actually, my teen is a pain... NM, take her!! :D)
  18. fobhomestead

    fobhomestead Well-Known Member

    Oh yeah, I am also a treeless saddle (I like blackforest treeless saddles from what I have been researching- western) or bareback type of gal. I am not really into bits either- like the original "bitless" bridle. I am the tpye to jump on the back in the field with a lead rope and halter... yeah, getting stepped on hurts. :) Getting thrown is not a whole lot of fun either, but when I can stand up, it sure is funny!!
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2010
  19. NaeKid

    NaeKid YourAdministrator, eh?

    Building a pole-barn is a "day job" once the ground is cleared. You can use local "straight" trees to build the barn up. Drill some holes in the ground and "plant" the poles - 4' to 6' down is more than sufficient. Take the next "pole" and string it parallel to the ground at the height you want (10' or 12') and continue down the length that you want. Set the width in a similar fashion, screw-down some scrap-tin roofing and your "pole barn" is done. LeanTo is similar, except that you only need the "front side" buried into the ground, the "back side" just sits on the ground. Water (and such) will slide to the ground.




  20. UncleJoe

    UncleJoe Well-Known Member

    We have 5 horses, 3 donkeys, 12 goats ( the 8 babies are still separated from the adults) and 15 chickens that share the pasture and shelter. Last year our boer buck tried to headbutt and then "hook" one of the donkeys. Lefty, the goat, got a good swift kick in the hind quarter and hasn't tried it since that we know of. In my album, you will see one of the goats sharing a round bale with the horses.