Homemade Soap

Discussion in 'General Chit-Chat' started by billythekid, Oct 21, 2008.

  1. billythekid

    billythekid Guest

    How do I make my own soap? What if I couldn't find soap in stores anymore?
  2. dilligaf

    dilligaf Well-Known Member

    basic recipe is an oil or fat, lye and water question is how basic or primitive would you like to go with your soap making. You can make your lye by running water through hard wood ashes and straw and youcan render any fat that you have available or would you rather purchase lye and purchase your oil .

    Basic procedure is to heat your oil and then mix the lye mixture into the water and when the two are of about equal temperatures combine and begin stirring until saponificatio occurs.
    There are oodles of recipes out there . The most basic i use is two cups oil or fat , heated to 130 deg. F mix the water with a tblsp lye and let it heat. When the oils and lye mixture are at 120 deg F mix then stir until it saponifies or begins thickening then pour into a mold . Unmold after 24 hours and let it rest in a ventilated area for 3-4 weeks turning every couple days.

    Most important thing is temp when mixing , do not use metal bowls to mix the soap in and stir until saponification.

  3. digapony

    digapony Guest

    Whats the difference in the types of soap created by using oil versus fat?
  4. android

    android Guest

    Where can I go to pick up a bunch of quality fat? Would a bucket of lard be good enough?
  5. NaeKid

    NaeKid YourAdministrator, eh?

    When you are cooking your meals, take the liquid fat from the pan and pour it into a glass container (bowl works fine). You can use pork, beef and turkey fat equally.

    A good choice for lots of fat quickly is to make your hamburger from "regular" where there is extra fat in it (nice and juicy) - and just drain the fats off into a bowl. Same applies to bacon. Same applies to a Thanksgiving turkey.

    You can make your own lye using a wood stove and old hardwood pallets. Softwoods can work in a pinch - but - hardwood seems to be the better choice.

    Another thing that I heard (had not tried personally) is to take the soap out of the molds ( cardboard milk containers work great ) after they have set and use cheese-cloth for the "curing" time.

    For more information - see the Wikiedia
  6. westbrook

    westbrook Well-Known Member

    most soaps are made by weight. here is one by volume that is so easy to make.

    Goat Milk Soap

    This is a wonderful quick recipe that is done by measurement not
    weight. I use an 8 cup class measuring cup to make this in and because
    I just don't have the time to stir and stir and stir to trace, I did
    go out and buy a stick blender (about $14.00)

    The problem with milk based soaps is the milk will curdle if it isn't
    cold enough which is why it is frozen. It it is not cold enough, when
    the lye is added to the milk, the milk boils. If the soap turns yellow
    that is a natural Characteristic of the sugars in the milk tha thave
    cooked. Of course the trick is to get a white bar!

    You can substitute any oil (see Oil Characteristics below recipe) for
    what you have on hand. Olive oil, canola oil, or combination of oils.
    If you want to add fragrance it is done at trace as is any coloring
    (now you can use a piece of crayon for a quick color additive).

    Vinegar Neutralizes Lye! always wear protective glasses, gloves, long
    sleeves, and cover your work area. Liquids can splash no matter how
    careful you are!

    Goat Milk Soap
    (by measurements, not weight)
    1 cup lard, melted
    1 cup coconut oil, melted
    1 cup goat (or other) milk (or water)
    1/4 cup Red Devil lye granules (not flakes or crystals from other
    1/4 cup water
    Dissolve the lye in the water.
    Ingredients near 110 to 120 degrees F.
    Add the lye/water to the fat. Stir in the milk.
    Tracing time about 1 hour 15 minutes.
    Leave in molds 2 days
    Place in freezer 3 hours to help remove soap from molds
    Remove soap from molds (or cut if in a large mold)
    Age 3 weeks.

    by Elaine C. White

    Oil Characteristics

    Almond-- gives fairly good lather and is good to condition the skin
    Apricot kernel---same as almond
    Borage--same as almond
    Canola--same as almond
    Castor oil--same as almond but speeds up trace
    Cocoa butter--Gives a hard bar fairly good lather and is good for skin
    conditioning and speeds tace slightly
    Coconut oil--Gives a hard bar, good cleansing qualities, fluffy
    lather, and speeds trace slightly
    Corn oil--Same as almond
    Cottonseed--Fairly good lather
    Hazelnut--Fair lather and good skin conditioning properties
    Hemp seed--same as hazelnut
    Jojoba--same as hazelnut
    Kukui nut--same as hazelnut
    Lanolin--Give a hard bar that has fair lather is fair to good for skin
    conditioning if not allergic and speeds trace slightly
    Lard--Gives a hard bar that has fairly good lather good for skin and
    speeds trace slightly
    Macadamia nut--same as hazelnut
    Neem oil--same as hazelnut with healing properties
    Olive--same as hazelnut and gives a fairly hard bar
    Palm Kernel--Give a hard bar with good cleansing properties, fluffy
    lather and speeds trace slightly
    Palm oil--Give a hard bar with fair lather and speeds trace slightly
    Peanut--fair lather with good skin conditioning
    Safflower--same as hazelnut
    Sesame--same as hazelnut
    Shea butter--Gives a hard bar with fair lather and good skin
    conditioning and speeds trace slightly
    Soybean--same as hazelnut
    Soybean (Crisco type)--fair lather and skin conditioning
    Sunflower--same as hazelnut
    Tallow--gives hard bar with fair lather and good skin conditioning and
    speeds trace slightly
    Wheat germ--same as hazelnut