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Hello all,

A few questions regarding gun oils and solvents:

1) What is the shelf life of these? Are there any ways to extend their shelf life like their is for gasoline using stabilizers?

2) I have found many different kinds and brands of both oil and solvents, does anyone have any favorites they would recommend and the reasons why?

3) Does anyone know where you can buy in bulk on the internet. Google has let me down!!

Thanks all, as I am sure many of you know, gun cleaning is a religion in Corps Ou-rah!
 

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As far as solvent, the industry standard is Hoppes #9. I have a bottle that is 20 yrs old that I just opened, and it's as good as new. What oil you use depends to a large part on what you are trying to accomplish. Cold weather dictates a lighter weight, low viscosity oil, and certain guns require special consideration. The M1 Garand likes grease, while the AR variants can be run almost dry, but prefer low viscosity or light weight oil. Handguns are usually lightly oiled, but again, some like the Glock prefer a lithium like grease at contact points. Any good quality gun oil will do the job.

As far as buying in bulk, I have a couple of bottles of oil and solvent that should last me the next several years. Not sure if anybody sells the stuff in bulk, but unless you are taking care of crew served weapons, :2thumb:you probably don't need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Tac, great points! As far as buying in bulk, I am not looking for a 55 gal drum but I do shoot competitive on the weekends and I have gone through 2 small Hopps bottles I got from Academy in 3 months. I was looking to buy a supply that would last me 2 to 3 years if the SHTF. Not sure how much that might be but with your thoughts on how long it lasts sounds like it would be a sound buy.
 

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You might want to grab a couple of bore snakes too...makes it a lot easier to de-gunk barrels. Only bad thing is they suck up solvent like a sponge! Keep the faith.
 

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At work we fire about 450 rounds every six months. We carry our firearms frequently and we've a wet climate, but there's not much time to clean our firearms so we have to use really efficient stuff.

We work with Gunscrubber to get the carbon out and follow up with Tetra oil. It's amazingly quick and if you do a quick spray and clean, with a touch up follow up a few days later, you'll maintain a clean firearm.
 

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Hello all,

A few questions regarding gun oils and solvents:

1) What is the shelf life of these? Are there any ways to extend their shelf life like their is for gasoline using stabilizers?

I've never been concerned enough to worry about shelf life on my solvents and oils for my lead lobbers. Like someone else mentioned, they last quite a while (many years), and at the rate you and I use them, having ample supplies on hand is a challenge in and of itself

2) I have found many different kinds and brands of both oil and solvents, does anyone have any favorites they would recommend and the reasons why?

Hoppes #9 is great, CLP is great, Remoil is ok (makes the outside pretty but that's about what it's worth to me), Butch's Bore Shine is awesome (really stinky stuff, but awesome on copper and lead fouling) shooters choice is OK.

3) Does anyone know where you can buy in bulk on the internet. Google has let me down!!

Midway usually has larger jugs of CLP and Hoppes, but the rest are a shot in the dark. Try Cheaper than Dirt, Sinclair/Brownells, and Midsouth Shooters Supply.

Thanks all, as I am sure many of you know, gun cleaning is a religion in Corps Oooh-rah!
Oh, most certainly it is, and for my brother and I (He was A 1/2, I was B 1/5), it still is....OK, well , for ME it is...he's another story after what I found in his bolt carrier last evening....coulda slapped him!
A few other things I keep on hand for doing a good detail on my hardware:
Q-tips by the box
Patches (bags of them)
Pipe cleaners (craft store bulk ones work just fine)
Chore Boy copper scrubbies (Hafta be the copper ones - only ones soft enough NOT to damage the lands & grooves of your rifling, and no, green scrubbies don't work real well)
Wood Stick q-tips (handy for getting way down in the action on AR types and semiauto handguns
Extra bore brushes in each caliber - 3-10 depending on what I shoot the most
Clean hospital surgical lint free rags - I have a nurse friend that gets them for me. They're washable, reusable, and live forever. Perfect for wiping down guns - they leave nothing behind!
Bench Cradle- indispensable for holding that pea shooter still when cleaning it
Old coffee cups - the ceramic ones - I have homebrew solvent solutions in a couple of them that I use for specific purposes when soaking heavily fouled parts, like my brother's bolt...and my ML breechplug.

If you don't have a compressor, a couple cans of "canned air" for blowing things out from where they're not sposta be can be handy.

A couple extra bath towels folded in half on the bench while working are wonderful too. Make sure to use the nasty ones (or, buy Mama a couple nice new ones before taking the old ones!), as they'll NEVER be clean again.

Plastic Wrap - if you slather and soak things with solvents, it's often a good idea to protect the surrounding surfaces - I like cling wrap/plastic wrap (over scopes, stocks, places I DON'T want the cleaning liquids). Cheap, easy, fast.

If you shoot a lot, I'd also suggest a bore guide. Helps keep the rod inside the bore, and helps prevent damage to the crown and wear from the cleaning rod. I use carbon rods myself, but still use a bore guide.
 

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Home Brew Formulas

Gun Cleaning Solvent: Ed's Red (Can be found on an Internet search)
1 Quart K1 Kerosene The extra clean kind for indoor use.
1 Quart Mineral Spirits
1 Quart Dextron III automatic transmission fluid

Mix and store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can correctly labeled

Gun Oil:
1 Quart Mobile 1 Synthetic Motor Oil (weight: 0W30 to 10W30)
1 Quart Dextron III Automatic Transmission Fluid

Optional: small tube of graphite

Mix and Store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can
This is going to be very close to LUCAS Gun Oil.

Gun Grease:
Red Farm Equipment Grease seems to work fine.

Put it in a container you can get your finger into.

And you can make bigger batches if needed.

NOTE: Before making a large batch, mix a small amount of both, and give them a try, and see if they meet your expectations for a light gun oil, and a general purpose cleaning solvent.
You may also want to stock special purpose cleaning and lubrication products. I use Burchwood Caseys Stainless Steel + on my stainless 1911 slide rails for example. I also have copper removing solvents.
I probably have enough cleaning products to fill the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. Some I like better than others. The homade solvent seems to work about the same as #9 from what I can tell.
 

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Heh... sounds like that ******* has (had ?) a LOT of cheap guns...

Nothing I'd like to use on my collection, though ;)

Sorry, I grew up in a gunshop... my old man was chief gunsmith for Stoeger's after he immigrated...

I've got 4 of these (private collection) in different calibers he made when he worked at Zi-Di in Germany before the war, starting at $30,000...
Grosswildbüchsen: Ziegenhahn und Sohn OHG

Good 'ol Hoppes worked fine for decades... even for my conventional "arsenal" (M-1,M-14,AKs,H&K,Galil,Uzi,Glock etc.)

- Basey

Gun Cleaning Solvent: Ed's Red (Can be found on an Internet search)
1 Quart K1 Kerosene The extra clean kind for indoor use.
1 Quart Mineral Spirits
1 Quart Dextron III automatic transmission fluid

Mix and store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can correctly labeled

Gun Oil:
1 Quart Mobile 1 Synthetic Motor Oil (weight: 0W30 to 10W30)
1 Quart Dextron III Automatic Transmission Fluid

Optional: small tube of graphite

Mix and Store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can
This is going to be very close to LUCAS Gun Oil.

Gun Grease:
Red Farm Equipment Grease seems to work fine.

Put it in a container you can get your finger into.

And you can make bigger batches if needed.
 

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My very earliest memory is the aroma of Hoppes #9. So I guess I'm stuck on that. I've used nothing but that all these years.

Speaking of early memories, I've always been taught to never us WD40 and other such penetrating oils on a weapon because it can penetrate the primer and deactivate it. Don't know if it's true, but that has alway been gospel in my family going back about 60 years.
 

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Acetone???

Good way to take the finish off your gun in about 2 seconds too!

Spill some on junk furniture and retract in horror!

- Basey
 

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Gun Cleaning Solvent: Ed's Red (Can be found on an Internet search)
1 Quart K1 Kerosene The extra clean kind for indoor use.
1 Quart Mineral Spirits
1 Quart Dextron III automatic transmission fluid

Mix and store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can correctly labeled

Gun Oil:
1 Quart Mobile 1 Synthetic Motor Oil (weight: 0W30 to 10W30)
1 Quart Dextron III Automatic Transmission Fluid

Optional: small tube of graphite

Mix and Store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can
This is going to be very close to LUCAS Gun Oil.

Gun Grease:
Red Farm Equipment Grease seems to work fine.

Put it in a container you can get your finger into.

And you can make bigger batches if needed.

NOTE: Before making a large batch, mix a small amount of both, and give them a try, and see if they meet your expectations for a light gun oil, and a general purpose cleaning solvent.
. . . The homade solvent seems to work about the same as #9 from what I can tell.
Agreed, I have been making my own - Ed's Red - for about five years now. Using it both as oil and cleaning solvent. :)
I make both with and without acetone, clean a lot of O/U shotgun barrels where I don't need to worry about the wood finish.
Store mine in metal can as the acetone will eat through the plastic ones.

Better than buying in bulk - But if you must, check out Midway USA. They have large bottles of Hoppe's - but not drums I'm afraid.
 

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I left the Acetone out on purpose. From what I read for long term storage it will evaporate out of the mix.

If you would like to know what is in the ORIGINAL version of Hoppes #9 you can find it here.
Homemade Firearm Related Products

ADDED: When looking at the site above read all the way to the bottom. You will find Case Sizing Lube.
1 Part Pure Liquid Lanolin to 3-5 parts 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. My mix is 1 to 3. I ran out of Dillon, and the oldest son came up with this one for me. It works as good as Dillon Case lube. I pitched a full bottle of Hornady One Shot after trying this blend.

ADDED: Another lube recipe has Dextron II Mobile 1 and STP in it. I think I will give this one a try for slide rails.

I read above where one fellow was worried about the condition of my gear. I doubt a hi grade synthetic oil will hurt anything needing oiled.
So far the bore cleaner seems to work just fine for bore cleaner.

RED Grease: I need to tune a little above in the first post. It will get stiff when cold. I would probably skip using it on semiautomatic rifles what will have heavy use. I use it on pivot pins, etc.

I will go pack to my original post above and make a few updates to it.
 

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Reverend Coot
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Ed's Red is spokin well of throught the shootin community. His formula's be based on ones from the franklin aresnal I beleive.

You can keep the stuff on hand ta mix up the bore cleaner, oil an such. May come a time when it be all ya have.
 

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The Ed's Red Formula is an Updated version of Hatchers Frankford Arsenal #18 Cleaning Solvent. Some original ingrediants like Sperm Whale Oil are no longer available. One ingrediant was very flammable and was replaced with another that did the same job and was much safer.

The Gun Oil Formula
50% Dextron III
50% Mobil One Synthetic 0W-20

This is supposed to be the mix for Lucas Gun Oil.

I am guessing the Spray Case Lube is going to very close to what Dillon is selling also. It works exactly the same, and looks the same.

Bob
 
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