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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning,

Looking at purchasing a Model 4000 ford tractor. I know very little about this tractor other than:

Model 4000 diesel
year 1964
appears to be in good to very good condition
serviceable rubber

What I would like to know, did this year and model have issues? How good was the ford diesel of that time? What mechanical issues if any was the model prone to? If you have first hand experience using a ford 4000 tractor what are or were you likes and dislikes?

Thanks, Charlie
 

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692 Posts
Good morning,

Looking at purchasing a Model 4000 ford tractor. I know very little about this tractor other than:

Model 4000 diesel

year 1964

appears to be in good to very good condition

serviceable rubber

What I would like to know, did this year and model have issues? How good was the ford diesel of that time? What mechanical issues if any was the model prone to? If you have first hand experience using a ford 4000 tractor what are or were you likes and dislikes?

Thanks, Charlie
Grew up on a 5000 turbo diesel. Recommend against the tricycle front end...I still haven't figured out why it's used. Also, the select-o-speed/synchromesh transmissions are making shifting almost unnoticeable; however, when the day comes that the bands have to be adjusted/replaced, it sounds like you will be hard-pressed to find someone who can do the work. If you want reliability, make sure it's a geared transmission. If the key switch is anything like it is on the 5000, it's pretty (unnecessarily?) complicated

This is actually one of the tractors that I'm hoping to buy in the next couple years when we get our land. If you get it, be sure to share your feedback with us!
 

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We owned a 1964 Ford 4000 diesel with the Select-O-Speed, it had a wide front axle, it came with a front end loader. WE bought it because we had mud cover a footing for a wall, worked like a dream because when I went to clean out the mud the mud had a perfect water content and the bucket slid down into it like it was made just for what I was using it for. The engine ran great, when I used the tractor to disc our lower field I couldn't believe how little fuel I used for the job. That Select-O-Speed really worked wonders, if the discs started to lug the engine down I'd just drop in a lower gear and there was no hesitation. Over the years we had people wanting to buy the tractor but we wanted to hang on to it even though we no longer used it that often. Then one day a couple of Jehovah's Witness men came up and asked if we wanted to sell the tractor, one of them worked on tractors and was into rebuilding and selling old ones. Anyway, he said he said he had a motor home shelter he'd be willing to trade plus cash and when I talked to my wife about needing a shelter we agreed it was a good deal. Not just for the cash and shelter, thing is I knew that it wouldn't be long and the transmission would need work, in fact, I called a friend that had the exact same type of tractor, what he thought the transmission issues would be and he said, "Getting parts", that was the deciding point for me. If it had been a standard gearbox, I might have kept it, I just didn't trust the longevity of the Select-O-Speed and whatever work might have to be done on it. What I would like to have is a small John Deere crawler, I've toyed with the idea of terracing the hill behind our home, it would be a good place for grapes and blueberries. Anyway, as to buying the tractor, I'd recommend staying away from the Select-O-Speed, it may end up being more expensive than a newer tractor with a simple transmission.
 

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A little P.S., the diesel engine Ford has used over the years, as far as I've seen, have been made by Lister, a British company. I'll also add, I had a friend that owned a John Brown three cyclinder diesel tractor, orchard model, low slung with a wide front axle, also made in England, it was a real workhorse, but again, parts could be an issue. I wouldn't mind having that tractor though as it was easy to work on.
 

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Texian
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Recommend against the tricycle front end...I still haven't figured out why it's used.
It was used by farmers growing row crops so they could get between the rows easily. That type of front wheel is quite a bit more unstable than standard or high crop front wheels.
 

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RockyMountainCanadian
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we had a 4500 industrial, which shares some of the same parts, There are more transmissions than the selecto speed, the 5 speed manual is nice.
the 3 cylinder diesel is a robust little motor.
 

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Good morning,

Looking at purchasing a Model 4000 ford tractor. I know very little about this tractor other than:

Model 4000 diesel
year 1964
appears to be in good to very good condition
serviceable rubber

What I would like to know, did this year and model have issues? How good was the ford diesel of that time? What mechanical issues if any was the model prone to? If you have first hand experience using a ford 4000 tractor what are or were you likes and dislikes?

Thanks, Charlie
Here are a few more facts.... http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/6/262-ford-4000.html

I'd check the 3 point hitch while loaded. If it's been used a lot the seals are probably gone. The response will be slow or nonexistent or not even throughout it's range.
 

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we had a 4500 industrial, which shares some of the same parts, There are more transmissions than the selecto speed, the 5 speed manual is nice.
the 3 cylinder diesel is a robust little motor.
The 4000 we had was four cylinder but I've seen many Ford tractors with three cylinder Lister diesels.
 

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I have a 74 3cyl diesel 4000 and it worked well until the rear seal on the engine and the head gasket went out almost simultaneously, gotta fix that this summer. :(
 

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Going to look at a 2000 tomorrow. I was told the lady wants $600 for it. It belonged to her brother and he died. It does run I am told and has new rubber all around. The tires are more than $600 so I wont loose out too much. It also comes with a bush hog attached so there is that too. I will let ya'll know what happens.
 

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I am a little teapot
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My dad always said parts for Ford tractors are hard to get. I don't know the truth behind that but he's adamant about it. There are still a fair amount of them around-I see Ford tractors on Pittsburgh's Craigslist fairly often. Good luck with the tractor, Recoilless, and keep us posted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would like to thank all those folks that posted replies to my questions. They were very helpful when it came to making a decision.

I just returned home from picking up the ford 4000 tractor I was interested in. Like anything that is over 50 years old it has a few issues. That being said, it starts and runs well. The tractor has a 4-speed transmission with high and low range. It is an industrial model built in 1963 with a front end loader, power assisted steering and a box blade on the back. We gave it a workout and found it to be a tough little tractor. The rubber has some wear, however, it is in great condition overall. It was always stored inside a shed out of the weather so it looks very good for its age.

All that being said I have one more question. How the heck do you get the battery out of the bugger. I expected the battery to be marginal and I was not let down. I am going to have to replace it. The only way I see is to pull the hood because the loader arms are in the way of sliding it out the side. Can anyone tell me if I am thinking straight here. I am not into making work if there is an easier way.

Once again THANKS to all who responded. The information was very helpful.

Charlie
 

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Yup, the loader arms block battery removal. You can either remove the loader or remove the hood. I'm not aware of any other alternatives, but hopefully someone will chime in if they know a better way.
 

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RockyMountainCanadian
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I think the 4000 shares the same sheet metal as the 800 series except the grill area, we had a 801 that had a loader on it, the battery was moved from in front of the steering box to the back end of the left running board. the 8n you can wrestle the battery out with certain loaders (8n s shouldn't have loaders IMO)
 

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Yup, the loader arms block battery removal. You can either remove the loader or remove the hood. I'm not aware of any other alternatives, but hopefully someone will chime in if they know a better way.
Seems that I remember the hood came off easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well after a few tries to remove the battery I looked at removing the hood. It would appear the prior owner did a little repair on the hood. His answer to his problem was to make it (1) piece. This leaves me with removing the loader. I have decided that I will move the battery to a new and more user friendly location for the future. I am now harvesting the fun of owning a new tool.

I keep telling myself I love my new toy, I love my new toy. The up side is I sleep well at night.

Thanks again for all the advice and help.

Cheers, Charlie
 

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Jack of all trades?
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I keep telling myself I love my new toy, I love my new toy. The up side is I sleep well at night.
Yep.

Charlie, you'll also find as many ways as possible to use your new tool to make it easier to justify buying it :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
LincTex

You nailed it. As old as I am, I still like to play with a new toy.
 
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