WRT gas and octane. higher octane contains less Btu energy then lower octane. I would love to see an engine that "burned up" on higher octane gas. I've heard these internet legends beforeand it always comes down to my Uncle who used to build engines said it was possible. Higher octane fuel will allow you take advantage of it's slower burn rate with more spark advance and/or higher compression, and realize a resultant power increase.
Don't Buy King Craft Generators
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Update:
My dh bartered
congrat::congrat::congrat to get the generator serviced and I started it on the second pull. It seems much quieter and runs smoother. I still think it was ***** gas from not using pure gas; will only use pure now.Will continue to start every month.
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How much old gas do you have stored?
Ad 10% lacquer thinner to it (not paint thinner... it isn't the same stuff).
It's all the same, where ever you can get it, but the expensive stuff has been filtered more. No big deal, the cheap stuff has a little lint floating around in it. Not sure why. 5 gallon cans from paint supply stores are usually about $20-$25. I have not bought it in one gallon cans in decades, so I imagine Lowe's or home depot prob charges about $8 a gallon (total rip off).
If the gas is REALLY gummy, make it 20-30% thinner. This method always works for me. I also mix it some with fresh gas before driving with it. I'll never put it back in a generator, or other infrequently used equipment - - since that is usually where it got drained from. My Ford Ranger will eat it and not complain even once. So will my old Harley.
There is a tiny shred of truth to this... and it is actually related to AvGas, specifically.
AvGas is almost ALL aromatics, mainly toluene and xylene - it is pure and would look like water if you took away the blue dye.
It has none of the "toxic waste" that "pump" gasoline absolutely has in it.
Because of this, it has a higher specific gravity number... so it is a little bit "thicker" than regular gasoline. If someone who is already on the ragged edge of running too lean uses it, they could then be in the "definitely" too lean range. THAT would be the reason for someone getting their engine too hot. It is best to go up a jet size when running AvGas.
I think AvGas also has a lower Reid Vapor Pressure number.
By the same token, Xylene and Toluene and both readily available from the paint store. I haven't priced any in a long time, but I would be willing to bet that if bought in drums it would be cheaper than AvGas.
I did a little searching on the interweb:
http://thisoldshed.tripod.com/avgas.htm
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/22517-toluene-vs-xylene.html
http://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/how-make-your-own-race-fuel-669583/
I will say this... if you are using AvGas or xylene or toluene to make today's ugly "pump gas" useable (or to help it store for longer)... you will end up with a lot more "octane rating" than you really, truly NEED. If your generator or old tractor would run fine on 87 or even 85 octane and you have 97 in the tank, you are wasting a lot of hard-earned money. I would add some lower octane diesel.
DIESEL!?! Are you (am I) nuts? Nope, not at all. Here's why:
Diesel is much more stable, so it will help with storage life.
Diesel is oily - so it works great as a upper cylinder lube.
Diesel has more BTU per gallon - so the extra energy makes the fuel go longer.
Diesel will protect the rubber parts from the strong solvents.
All of this with no power loss. And I don't have to buy Sta-Bil.
Warning - rejetting is required when running this soup. Easy to do on an old tractor... just twist the mixture screw.
You would need to invest in a #80-#100 drill bit set to add a jet size or two to your Chinese generator. Pretty easy. Been there, done that.
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One more reason to use a propane generator. Especially for a SHTF power source. Most people can not store enough gas on site to run a generator for months at a time. Even if you could gas starts to varnish after 6 months. You can easily store a thousand gallons of propane at most homes. It will not deteriorate and still be useable years down the road. Propane burns much cleaner and extends your engine by at least a factor of four. I have a friend who does long distance deliveries in South Dakota with a propane powered truck, last time we talked he had 400,000 plus miles with no major repairs to the drive train.
Ditto that-Must have stuff! I use "Never Seeze" brand, any steel fastener screwed into aluminum needs it-plugs/mufflers/head bolts any fastener that gets rusty on the part you see needs it on the threads you don't see. Don't get it on your clothes does not wash out and hard to get off hands.
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I have been involved with aviation since 1985 (holy crap, has it been almost 30 years?), and when it comes to spark plug threads, this stuff is hands down the best you can buy anywhere.
Remember - you mess up threads in an aircraft cylinder, to fix it you start at $2500 and go up from there!!!!
Champion Aviation Spark Plug Thread Lubricant
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Remember - you mess up threads in an aircraft cylinder, to fix it you start at $2500 and go up from there!!!!
Champion Aviation Spark Plug Thread Lubricant
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That is an interesting use.
NOTE: when putting anti-seize on plug threads, pay super close attention to use only a small amount and to not let the compound anywhere near the business end of the spark plug, or it could foul the plug when the engine warms up and the compound starts to flow.
That is why the Champion Aviation stuff is safer - It is non-flowable under high temps, unlike the metallic anti-seize you find with the brush-in-the-can-lid. The FAA strictly prohibits the metallic anti-seize on aviation engine spark plugs for this very reason. (exhaust systems OK though)
The difference in before and after temperatures is dramatic. Our IR survey guy couldn't believe the difference.
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You would think it would become an industry standard?
The only stuff I have ever used was Gardner-Bender GB OX-100 or OX-400 "Ox-Gard". I always thought it just looked like cheap wheel bearing grease in a tube?
Oops, I made a mistake. It's Kopr-Shield not Kopr Kote. They're both anti-sieze copper based lubricants but the Kopr Shield is the only one that mentions electrical connections and conductivity.You would think it would become an industry standard?
http://www-public.tnb.com/shared/inst/ta02448-tb2.pdf
Good info gotta get some.I have been involved with aviation since 1985 (holy crap, has it been almost 30 years?), and when it comes to spark plug threads, this stuff is hands down the best you can buy anywhere.
Remember - you mess up threads in an aircraft cylinder, to fix it you start at $2500 and go up from there!!!!
Champion Aviation Spark Plug Thread Lubricant
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I have a King 950 watt generator I rarely use. Total running time 1 hour. I was using it the other day to operate a weed whacker quite a distance from the house. It ran fine for about 45 minutes and then quit just like it ran out of gas. Turned out it wasn't out of gas I thought maybe it was overheated because the wife ran it none stop under load for the entire time. That wasn't it either . After hours and hours of trying to start it ,and having cleaned the carburater and spark plug as well as checking all electrical connections I gave up and went to the computer to see what they had to say because I felt it had a weak spark compared to what I was used to seeing. Sure enough one of the threads said to change the spark plug no matter what, and sure enough that was the problem after hours of frustration that solved the problem and now it works perfectly. One pull after the new plug problem solved .Since then I have read several notes about the inferior off shore plugs that come in these machines and others and it is strongly recommended to change the spark plug even if you are not having any problems yet. A special thank you to the person that stated in their thread statement to change the spark plug ,because I just couldn't believe that only after a total of 1 hours use that a spark plug that looks so good would have been the problem. Why would any company go to the trouble of producing an inferior article like this when for a few cents more they could produce an adequate product. Also King tools should be aware of this and not put these plugs in any of their machines no matter what the savings in prodution cost. All it does it give them a bad rep to buyers. Again thanks for the heads up on the plug because I had spent hours and a lot of muscle pulling on the start cord. REPLACE THE PLUG !!!!!!!
Will change the plug this week--thanks. It starts for us as we test it often.
Thanks again.
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Autolite spark plugs (usually excellent, even when made in Mexico) have now been moved to CHINA.
Gonna have to be NGK plugs in everything from now on, no matter what!
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3,397 Posts
fuel turns into gum if left in the carburetor to long
(Marvel mystery oil first came out in October 1923 to rid carburetors of deposits caused by unrefined gasoline. In World War II, Marvel mystery oil was actually used in ships, tanks, airplanes and other military vehicles. Marvel Mystery Oil has several uses in the automotive field. It can serve as an additive in the fuel system to help clean out any buildup from debris in the gasoline)
I have been using this product ever since I saw my father use it way back; in case you run out of it you can use transmission oil, but as a rule drains all fuel and run unit dry, opening carburetor drain plug is also a good idea. If you stored fuel for the long run is a good idea to set-up a water separator system like the diesel engines have http://www.walmart.com/ip/FUEL-WATER-SEPARATOR-KIT/11071204
Is cheap and works find, alcohol in fuel draws water and water in fuel turns into gum, creating a nightmare, also a excellent product that has been around for many years is http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/fuel-treatments.asp, but is a good idea to also have a carburetor spray cleaner handy.
:2thumb:
(Marvel mystery oil first came out in October 1923 to rid carburetors of deposits caused by unrefined gasoline. In World War II, Marvel mystery oil was actually used in ships, tanks, airplanes and other military vehicles. Marvel Mystery Oil has several uses in the automotive field. It can serve as an additive in the fuel system to help clean out any buildup from debris in the gasoline)
I have been using this product ever since I saw my father use it way back; in case you run out of it you can use transmission oil, but as a rule drains all fuel and run unit dry, opening carburetor drain plug is also a good idea. If you stored fuel for the long run is a good idea to set-up a water separator system like the diesel engines have http://www.walmart.com/ip/FUEL-WATER-SEPARATOR-KIT/11071204
Is cheap and works find, alcohol in fuel draws water and water in fuel turns into gum, creating a nightmare, also a excellent product that has been around for many years is http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/fuel-treatments.asp, but is a good idea to also have a carburetor spray cleaner handy.
:2thumb:
LincTex if you choose to Go NGK be aware that I have had a lot of fuel foul problems with their AB-6 plugs, when used in flat head Continential engines, weird I know but if they get choke fouled they will not fire even after being heated. theoretically this should not be possible but empirical data shows otherwise,
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Great.
Now I'll be running through the salvage yards robbing plugs out of engine to store as "preps".
I might have to try TIG welding additional material to the ground electrode on worn plugs to keep them alive longer. Sucks to hear about NGK sensitivity.
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