Driving Screws and Lag Screws without Electricity
This sems sorta funny, but I just finished one survival book and in it the author recommended an electric drill with spare batteries. This seems normal, what about next week or a month rrom now?
My dad was apprenticed to a carpenter in te late ‘’30s ( the Great Depression Era) . Upon his return from WW II he went to work for a mining company as a carpenter and was at it for the next 35 years. He built our home doing not only the carpentry, but the masonry, plumbing, electricity, and installed the oil furnace hot water heat. Almost 45 years later my brother ran into a guy who redid the shingles (2 nd time), the guy was amazed he had never run into a roof that ran so true. Do the best you can.
While growing up I watched him take a hammer to screws and pound them 2/3 s the way in and then screw them the rest of the way. His first drill was a heavy duty Craftsman that was still running when he died. It was a 1/2 inch drill that more than once took this Finlander for a ride when I first started to drill metal. It made life a lot easier. i know he would have loved our battery powered drill/ drivers.
I am old enough to know about gimlets that had a handle on one end and a screw shape on the bottom and could be used for starting screw holes. Yes, I learned about Yankee drills for lighter work and have used really heavy duty ones, one had really big gears and an iron shoulder piece so you could put pressure on your project. It had a set of gears to reduce the speed of the bit and increase the power of the bit. Yankee drills operate like a hand powered mixer for baking , but built for power and strength. You can still find them where used tools are sold like flea markets or Habitat for Humanity surplus stores.. Yes, I have two and , no, I don’t wish to part with either.
Automatic push drills were hand powered. The drill had a shaft inside, that shaft spiraled downward as you pushed and a spring that when you let off pushing- pushed the handle upward so you can push it downward AGAIN. The bits had no spiral to them but did have two grooves with both edges sharp so it cut moving up and down. the down was to go deeper and the up to try to clean the hole out.. The bits were stored in the handle and so it was lighter and slimer and sleeker than a Yankee drill.. Their butt end of a bit had a “step” to keep the bits from rotating in the chuck. Good drills , but don’t buy one without any bits.
There was an automatic screwdriver that could be set so it would work locked or a position to screw in ond one to screw out as you pushed down. The Lord help you if you manage to get skin between the handle and chuck for holding the bits. If you run across one make sure it runs under pressure and has the bits you want.
Screwdrivers and screwdriver bits are made slotted, square, Phillips, Allen, and torox. If you are working on a firearm, please, use a hollow ground screwdriver (at the tip the blade should be ground so the sides are parallel to one another, and the screwdriver should fit the slot exactly. If a Phillips doesn’t fir it will wear out too soon and the edges will round off There are tools like a jackknife that have different sized tools. torox and allen bits. These work with the bits are staight out like a screwdriver for speed or folded 90 degrees for more power. they are not the easiest on the hand.
The larger te diameter of the handle the more torque a screwdriver will have, saving your hands and wrists. This is the reason trucks, tractors, and buses had such large steering wheels -way back when.
Braces are used for drilling holes. If you have to you can always “peg” things together. Braces have a collar , one setting makes the brace rigid and the other allows it to ratchet (this alows it to be used when you can’t swing it 360). There are adjustable bits that work ,but the traditional bits are a little faster in my opinion. The chucks will hold a metal cutting bit , but not well. You can file/ grind the bit end square. Way back when, Dad cut off the sq. end of a couple of wood bits and had them welded to a couple of sockets he used frequently for tin sheeting (this was before such good battery operated drills were available).
Sockets 3/8 and 1/4 drive work well with speed wrenches to get screws and lag screws in and ratchets (when necessary) to tighten them. I’ve even use a speed wrench and a extension to get where I couldn’t reach.
To put in normal screws, some of your bits for screwdrivers work well with smaller sockets . Most bits are a 1/4 in shaft so 1/4 inch socket works. Your 3/8 speed wrench and ratchet work too. Use a 3/8 to 1/4 inch reducer socket- then your 1/4 socket and normal screw driver bits will work. For speed, there are also round discs about 2 1/2 inches in diameter with a 1/4 or 3/8 nipple to put socket on.. With their knurled edge in some places they work well.
Drill bits, on some projects it is not difficult to go through more than one of a single bit in an hour. Several sets of bits extra can't be bad, Drilling before using a screw is usually a good thing.
If all else fails or you have almost nothing, you can grab a nail with a Vise-Grip and heat the nail in your fire and burn a hole to start a screw or lag bolt.
A small hammer tapping lightly may release a stuck screw/bolt ot it will help get a screw/ bolt extra tight, put pressure on the handle in the direction you want to go and start tapping. A lubricant or wax can make a screw less difficult. Your job is to get screws and lag screws in and tight as you wish without damage to your wrists.
Okay, I’m almost done. Rust is not your friend, It doesn’t take too much timr to put automotive wax on a rag and wipe your bits down
I hope this opens a new avenue for someone. d